Today was a free day in Seoul! I started out by heading across the street to the Buddhist temple. It's amazing to have a traditional temple right next to the COEX Mall and Korea World Trade Center, but there it is. It's been there for at least a century.
I had no particular plan except to see what it looked like, but as I approached the main hall, a monk entered ahead of me. I had arrived just in time for the morning chants. So I took a mat, sat down, and meditated while the other patrons, led by the monk, chanted (I don't know the words). It was a beautiful hall with traditional painted ceilings, and many people (50?) were there on a Saturday morning. I don't know much about Korean Buddhism except that it is more ritualistic than American Buddhism, and the contemplative practice focuses on the basic question, "What is this?"
I departed after 30 minutes and headed back across the street. The weather was truly awful. Every spring the sands of the Gobi Desert in China blow across the Korean Penninsula, coating everything with a fine layer of yellow dust. The sky was totally yellow, and the visibility was like a thick San Francisco fog-- you could see nearby buildings, but that was about it. Some people wore surgeon masks, and many were coughing or had irritated eyes. Apparently this goes on for weeks every spring. Korea sends money to China each year to plant trees at the eastern edge of the desert, but it seems to be a losing battle. Erosion loosens the sand, and the Gobi Desert is in general getting larger every year.
Then I met my friend, whom I know because my father is a friend of her thesis adviser (yeah, it's a remote connection, but she and I are really compatible). We didn't want to spend too much time outside, but we did start by visiting a traditional Korean village. It's sort of a tourist site, but did have an interesting set-up.
Old Korean houses used floor heating supplied by burning wood in brick ovens beneath the floors. We also saw replicas of old-style fermentation barrels, kitchen and farm implements, and a device for brewing rice wine. Amazingly, they were giving out little samples of the rice wine, which we tried. Not bad-- tasted like
sake.
We had lunch on the premises-- another dose of
bibim bap! And afterward we had sweet honey-citron tea with candied citron rinds and pine nuts floating in it. Yum! This came with traditional rice cookies, which are basically rice puffs, flash-fried, then coated in honey and sesame. They were very light.
Then we walked to a stream that flows through the middle of Seoul. Seoul is divided by the Han River, and this stream is a tiny tributary. It used to be underground-- they paved over it to make a big road. But later, people wanted more natural areas within Seoul, so they actually dug it up and made a walking trail beside the stream. We strolled past the garment district, which is apparently a fashion hub in Korea. The designs are created right there, then made into clothing at a bunch of small, independent clothing stores right in the vicinity. It's about two days from design to on-the-rack, a very efficient supply chain.
One thing about this stream trail that was amazing to me was that all along it, there were stepping stones to get across. The stream was only about 3-4 feet deep and flowed gently, but still, these stepping stones were right out there in the middle of it. In the US, some kid would fall off and drown, and the resulting lawsuit would require the removal of all those unsafe stepping stones.
Along the way, we ran into a couple looking for a tourist destination called the Korea House. They looked Korean, and were about 50 years old, but they had perfect American English. They asked us because I was a Westerner, so they figured we would know English (they didn't know any Korean). They must have been very early Korean-Americans because they were obviously second-generation. I bet they had trouble in Korea because everyone would assume they spoke Korean. My friend commented that she had that trouble in Japan, where many people didn't realize that wasn't a Japanese speaker.
Then we took the subway over to the National Museum of Korea. It was typical of a national museum (I've seen the one in Taipei, and also the Louvre, British Museum, and Smithsonian). In other words, it was a subtle glorification of the country. It was really crowded because parents like to take their kids there for educational reasons, plus the sand was making the outdoors unpleasant.
I noticed that several exhibits were called something like "intercultural exchange," and talked about how Korean culture had been a big influence on some aspects of Japanese culture. You would never in a zillion years see a Japanese museum talking about how Korea had influenced its culture.
Anyway, it's a very nice musuem. And I even learned some Korean history about the Three Empires, which became the Two Empires, etc, etc. There was a huge historical timeline, much like the one I saw in Taipei (which was the Chinese view of the world). This one had four parallel tracks: Korea, Japan, China, and "World" (which seemed to be Europe and the Americas). I have no idea what happened to Africa, which should have started the whole thing off, or anywhere else in the world.
We persevered to see basically all of it, which took several hours. By this time, it was nearly 6 pm, and definitely time to head home! But we had one more event. When we got back to my hotel, where we were planning to eat in the fancy Asian restaurant, my friend pointed out that her former colleague at university was getting married at the hotel that evening. We had already missed the ceremony, but it was time for the banquet. We headed downstairs, and she actually talked her way in!
Wearing our grubby jeans and sneakers, we attended a Korean wedding meal. I was the only Westerner there.
The menu was Western! Apparently it gives the appearance of high class to serve a Western banquet at a wedding. My friend commented that when she needed to "restore her power" in Paris, she had found a Korean restaurant. So her idea was that this meal might restore my power.
Here was the menu: Crabmeat salad with cucumber, greens, and citrus dressing. Lentil soup with aspargus. Beef tenderloin with mushroom reduction, mashed potatoes, roasted garlic, and asparagus. Ceasar salad with bacon bits. Korean wedding noodles, which means long noodles (for long life and happiness) in a spicy broth with kimchee floating on top. And finally, light cheesecake with blueberries and currants, topped with vanilla bourbon sauce. The meal was served with a decent Cabernet Sauvignon (French). And the portions were actually Asian-sized, so the whole thing wasn't overwhelming (although I only ate a couple bits of meat; I don't eat much beef anyway).
Anyway, then there were some toasts and the bride and groom walked around. Just like in America, they didn't get to eat. When they came by, the groom asked my friend who I was, and she replied casually that I am the daughter of (my father). He nodded in recognition-- according to her, my dad is fairly well known in this circle of Korean physicists! Hmm. Well, at least there was some plausible reason for me to be at this wedding, and I wasn't totally crashing it.
Overall, I was thrilled to have the chance to participate! It's really fun to see the fundamental rituals in a foreign country (wedding, funeral, gift-giving, etc).
At the end of the day, I felt like I had swallowed Korea, from Buddhist chanting, to 10,000 years of history and art, to a modern-day hotel wedding. (And I swallowed some Gobi Desert dust too).